Supima, Lyocell, Organic: A Plain-English Guide to T-Shirt Fabrics
Two white T-shirts can look identical on a hanger and feel nothing alike after ten washes. One keeps its shape and gets softer. The other twists at the side seams and goes thin at the collar. The difference is almost always the fiber, and the label tells you more than you'd think.
Staple length, the detail nobody mentions
Cotton fibers come in different lengths. Longer fibers spin into smoother, stronger yarn with fewer loose ends, and loose ends are what pill and fuzz. Most everyday cotton is short-staple. The premium names on labels are long or extra-long staple.
Supima
Supima is the trademark for American-grown Pima, an extra-long-staple cotton that makes up a very small share of the world's crop. In a T-shirt it shows up as a smooth, slightly cool hand, deeper color and a fabric that resists pilling.
Organic cotton
Organic describes how the cotton is farmed: without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. It says nothing about fiber length on its own, so quality varies. Good organic cotton feels soft and matte, with a relaxed drape that suits ribbed and semi-relaxed cuts.
Lyocell blends
Lyocell is made from wood pulp, in a process that recovers and reuses most of its solvent. Blended with cotton, it adds fluid drape and a faint sheen, and it handles moisture well. If you like a tee that skims the body, look for a lyocell-cotton mix.
Cotton with a little cashmere
A small percentage of cashmere changes the feel more than the number suggests. The fabric gets warmer and softer without the weight of a sweater. It's the long-sleeve tee for the months when plain cotton isn't quite enough.
Three checks in the fitting room
• Hold the fabric to the light. An even knit with no thin patches is a good sign.
• Look at the neckband. It should lie flat and spring back when stretched.
• Check the side seams. They should hang straight, not spiral toward the front.
What you're paying for
With high end tee shirts for women, the price reflects fiber, knitting and finishing you can't see in a photo. The practical return is cost per wear. A tee that holds its shape for years is the cheapest thing in the drawer.
Care, briefly
Cold wash, inside out, low heat or flat dry. Good fiber forgives a lot, but heat is still the enemy.